Should you be driving around looking for Mosaica @ The Lock, and even if you are not, do not allow yourself to be put off by its exterior which is to be found on the ground floor of a singularly unpleasant looking former office block alongside the canal. Persist and you will most certainly not be disappointed as you step inside, particularly as Mosaica is plumb centre for what must be one of the largest culinary deserts in London.

On the not unreasonable assumption that your presence at Mosaica is part of a desire to eat decently, you have found the oasis. There is a constantly changing menu featuring such dishes as char-grilled squid with chilli jam and shaved fennel, duck breast with well flavoured rice.

A carefully selected wine list travels the world and service is mature, confident and not without a touch of humour.