Moya

Is this the only Slovak restaurant in Britain? Counter claims to this site please under cover of a plain brown email. Meantime, let's be adventurous and say it's the only one we know about. Making comparisons with other mid-European cuisines it all began to assume some shape and a common pattern began to emerge. Not least is the robust attitude to food, perhaps something to do with Good King Wenceslas and all that excessive snowfall?

Shall we start with the devil's toast, rye bread with smoked sausage, onions, tomatoes, peppers, fresh chillies and melted goats milk cheese - a meal in itself, do I hear you say? There's a whole lot more. The vegetarian version of DT for instance, with the sausage thoughtfully omitted, or rum battered aubergine with goat's cheese, thick slices of the stuff, deep-fried and served with a homemade tartar sauce.

Now let's take a look at the main events. Segedin is a creamy pork and sauerkraut goulash, gently seasoned with paprika, nutmeg and caraway, and served with sautéed potatoes, or knedla to give them their home name, and they accompany many Slovak dishes. The stuffed peppers have been wrenched from the vegetarians and packed with pork, rice, onions, garlic, parsley and egg, then served with tomato sauce and - guess what - knedla.

Slovaks clearly like their puddings, starting with fruit dumpling, filled with apricot and served with traditional poppy seed and butter sauce, or for full appreciation with chocolate sauce and whipped cream.

An alarming array of cocktails make for a pleasurable approach to the evening, perhaps even further, and for the more conventional a wine list offers promising reading.