Mud Dock and its sibling in Exeter have evolved over the years, with a philosophy rather than a business plan emerging. Via Spain, Portugal and Greece, and through listening to customers menus have grown, including much-loved items like marinated chickens and merguez sausages.

Starters could include the soup of the moment, a mange tout and artichoke salad with orange and mustard dressing or pan-fried scallops wrapped in parma ham with a mixed leaf salad. The sirloin steaks are popular, weighing in at 10 oz and chargrilled, served with dauphinoise potatoes and baby carrots, but what really caught my eye was the guinea fowl, with wild mushrooms and prawns, and spiced cannelloni beans.

Desserts are go at Mud Dock, ranging from bread and butter pudding with hot custard, through the ubiquitous sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce to a wonderful chocolate cherry liqueur cake with natural yoghurt. Service is cheerful and self-expressive.