Mulberry Restaurant at Bishopstrow House

Bishopstrow House has been described as a temple to relaxation, a proposition that it would be churlish to deny. Its ivy-clad exterior encourages the notion of a building that has become part of the landscape in which it is possible to put the cares of the world behind you, and take time to catch up with yourself.

When the time comes to re-connect there is a wealth of pleasant distractions within and around the hotel, ranging from a James Bond black tie event with Aston Martins, to a day amongst the peerless beauty of Longleat, one of the great houses of England, or some of the finest private gardens in the country.

Central to Bishopstrow is the Mulberry Restaurant, a symphony of golden yellow named after a venerable tree in the grounds, beneath which it is said that on a warm summer's day it is possible to enjoy the sun, disturbed only by the occasional sound of falling ripe mulberries.

The Restaurant leads off The Conservatory, often used as a breakfast room, and overlooks the gardens. Two or three course lunches are served, but as ever the main event is dinner, when Head Chef Frank Bailey and his team pull all the stops out, making heavy demands upon local sources for their ingredients, sometimes organic, using sporting estates and occasionally more modest locations to which only they have access.

Starters yield a pressed game pate set with its own marinade and home made chutney, roasted breast of wood pigeon with a cep and herb risotto, or grilled red mullet with a coconut and coriander cous-cous. And a hint - do not treat lightly the seasonal country soup, all too often an amalgam of kitchen bin ends - but here a source of subtle flavours.

The main event demonstrates a kitchen that is in full charge of its output, ranging from duck breast stuffed with black figs, celeriac fondant and a mulled wine sauce, or pan fried Longleat pheasant with a baby onion and garlic tart tatin. The venison from the West Country is renowned for its flavour; expect to find pan fried saddle with gratin potato and wild mushrooms.

And so to dessert country, or as the menu encouragingly calls them, "puddings". A parfait made from honey, whisky and Irish Cream is served imaginatively with sweet golden raisins, and the wonderful array of West Country farmhouse cheeses represent an opportunity not to be missed.

A leading Conservative MP once famously referred to a colleague as having "something of the night" about him. I wonder if she had in mind the dark side of the melting chocolate fondant served in the Mulberry.

In keeping with the spirit of the times they serve a canape selection, a sort of English dim sum, suitable for a light lunch accompanied by a canny choice from the excellent wine list.

Amongst a good range of choices expect to find parmesan and olive biscuits with goat's cheese and pesto, blinis with smoked salmon, crème fraiche and dill, ham roulade with Dijon butter or mini baked potatoes with caviar and sour cream, all for a very modest sum, no pun intended.

The same high standards of von Essen everywhere apply at this delightful restaurant.