Yorkshire is well blessed with culinary havens, and Mustard and Punch is one of them. The proverbial converted shop makes for a friendly setting and the restaurant is well regarded over an increasingly wide area. Every so often they step outside their normal excellent menu range and run a gourmet evening which is astonishingly good value for money and in places further south would cost double what you will pay at Mustard and Punch. The menu selected here is taken from one of those evenings.

From a selection of six amuse bouche choose the whipped Nangis brie with fig chutney, or the roast John Dory, pot-braised oxtail, beetroot and trompette mushrooms. On to the starters, and another six from which to choose; perhaps the pressed ham hock and shiitake mushroom terrine, with mustard seed and potato salad, or a roast salmon steak with vanilla braised salsify, oyster veloute and petit pois. For the main event, from a choice of seven consider the trio of Yorkshire lamb, noisette, shepherd's pie and kidney with roast lamb juices, spinach and caramelised swede puree, or a superb roast beef fillet with shallot puree, sariadaise potato, baby vegetables, Madeira jus and béarnaise sauce.

Desserts follow the same familiar but wonderfully tweaked pattern, with rum-soaked pudding, caramelised banana ice cream and clove caramel, or a warm chocolate and raspberry brownie, almond ice cream and nougat sauce.

Now when I tell you that all this comes comfortably within a £50 note, and is supported by a well-sourced wine list, starting at £10.95, and efficient, friendly service, you will see what I mean. It is also fair to say that pro rata the more usual menus represent the same excellent value for money, and should you be a connoisseur of Belgian beers your cup will indeed overflow.