Nags Head

Situated amongst the lovely rolling hills of the Chilterns, The Nags Head re-opened in March 2008 after an extensive refurbishment; this beautifully restored grade II listed, 15th Century Inn offers a varied and freshly cooked menu for lunch or dinner. The interior has real character, including a sizeable inglenook fireplace, perfect for taking your coffee in front of, whilst they also enjoy surrounding space offered by a large and peaceful garden.

An English and French fusion menu is on offer, featuring their home smoked fish and meats and some prized local produce from their chefs - Executive Chef Claude Pallet, who in the past three years has twice been named top chef in the country by The Publican Magazine, and Head Chef Alan Bell. Daily specials are on offer including fresh fish and vegetarian options. The Nags Head was the famous children's author Ronald Dahl's local, and has seen many a Prime Minister and Head of State dropping in on their way to Chequers.

Seven newly refurbished double and twin bedrooms all have superbly finished bathrooms or shower suites, where quiet luxury is the name of the game and a massive English breakfast awaits you in the morning, with something lighter for the less eager beavers. One wonders how many of those on their way to Chequers might gladly have preferred to stay put in this undemanding and friendly place.

Described as "a foodie pub" this is broadly right in the best sense. Food is respected rather than worshipped, and it will come as no surprise when the awards and reviews start tumbling in at the same pace as the Michaels's other house, The Bricklayers Arms in Flaunden, Hertfordshire.

Every effort is made to locate fresh organic produce, where possible from local suppliers, a factor that shortens the odds when it comes to making a judgement about what's on the plate. They work from two menus, lunch and dinner, with special Sunday lunch also available. For lunch around eight starters jockey for position and from the outset you will find yourself in that 'I'd love them all' dilemma. Eggs Meurette emerges as poached eggs on garlic crouton with red wine, smoked bacon, onions and mushrooms, which sounds to me like a dish that might very well double up as a country sports breakfast.

The crab shimmers into view with home smoked salmon, served with a butter milk cream and blinks, or you might prefer the selection of home smoked fish served with lemon coriander butter and tomato chutney. For a main course I can think of few better treats than a steak and kidney pie marinated in ale and served with chive mash, or if I could it might well be the pork burger (from Micklefield Hall Farm, Sarratt) with the full bib accompaniments. I was told recently by She Who Cooks that I could not have a pork tagine, but after the raised eyebrow was taken seriously we enjoyed a truly delicious dish believe me. Religious grounds apparently.

Puddings are perfectly presumptuous - head for the hot chocolate sponge pudding and be seduced - but enjoy the pudding first.

A wine list that brings the faculties smartly to attention could provide a major justification for a visit to this excellent pub/restaurant with rooms, more details of which can be found on their classy, easy to navigate Website.