Namaaste Kitchen in Camden town is an Indian restaurant with a difference, created by The Salaam Namaste Bloomsbury team, and drawing heavily upon kitchen theatre. At its heart a theatrical restaurant show-kitchen enables diners to enjoy the spectacle of sophisticated Indian grills and different varieties of quality Indian and Pakistani cuisine in preparation. By the use of subtle and complex marinades they create distinctive dishes that are a delight of mingled flavours.

To match this modern approach the décor has been designed to respond in full, with a mix of traditional and contemporary design. The principal area is modern but with a rustic flavour of bare brick walls, chimney breast and fireplace. American walnut pillars contrast well with `cream leather seating.

A welcome innovation is the two Chef's Tables with a privileged view of the restaurant grill room, which between them can cater for groups of 8 covers. Three very core Indian grilling methods are used throughout; first the Tandoor, traditional Indian cooking done through a really hot clay oven, then the Sigri, a simple but effective method using a coal flame, and finally the impressive Tawa, where food is cooked or griddled on a hot, thick iron plate.

By now you may be asking whether the quality of the food matches that of the sense of theatre, to which the only real answer is, go and find out. But if you trust those who have, you will find no cause for hesitation. The menu offers around 16 starters, and whilst some of the respected dishes of long standing are there, look for the newcomers, the twists on old friends, and the inspirational, witness the Tandoori Portobello mushroom, marinated before being filled with figs, cashew nuts, raisins, green chilli and homemade cheese in a curry leaf dressing. It is often said the street food of India is amongst its best - test that statement with chowpatty Bhelpoori, vegetarian street food from Mumbai.

It is always fascinating to see the food of one country being adapted to the recipes of another, so why should we raise even so much as an eyebrow at wild rabbit leg Achari, cooked in pickling spices with missi roti and aubergine compote, never mind Peshwari lamb chops marinated with fresh ginger paste, raw papaya and specially selected herbs and spices. But my favourite comes from Rajasthan, the land of forts and palaces, where Tandoori Barbary duck breast is served with roasted tiger prawn in a tangy fresh salad, simple but inspired.

Dates and ginger naan, dhall Panchratan, a five-lentil mix of great charm, and exquisite lemon rice serve to bolster the principal courses, as if any were needed, but the biding memory is of the wonderful aromas that intertwine through the restaurant. It would be presumptuous to assume that the wine list in such a restaurant could be anything but sophisticated, and you'd be right. Light years ahead of any outdated assumptions that decent wines and Asian cuisine do not share the same aims, the wine list at Namaaste is a well annotated production that, whilst not lengthy, makes a strong case for the union at prices that only apply the rod in the Champagne area, and offer up towards a dozen by the glass.

The main bar has a feature wall of lights and stone slate to admire as you savour a cocktail before or after, and there is a good range of bar snacks and an all day dining menu. Absolutely no excuse at all for not paying an early visit to this increasingly popular Indian haven to high standards all round.

Check their Website for updated menus, offers and - yes, believe it or not - a takeaway menu. Lucky old Camden town!