Narrow, The

The evolution of Gordon Ramsay from chef to businessman, without losing his culinary roots, has been one of the more fascinating developments in the restaurant world during the last couple of decades. The Narrow, located in Limehouse, was formerly the residence of the dockmaster for Limehouse Basin. A house of some character, it has been sensitively converted, with much of the original retained.

The ground floor accommodates the day to day business of eating and drinking and upstairs a handsome private dining room that comfortably seats 14.

Potted Cromer crab, handmade pork pie with home made piccalilli or a grilled Dorset mackerel set a convincing tone amongst the starters, and devilled lamb's kidneys or Welsh rabbit arrive on toast.

Lamb steaks are very much the vogue just now, and Ramsay is not afraid to invoke that excellent dish, braised faggots with peas in gravy. A whole lemon sole is served with Morecambe brown shrimps - wonderful food at prices that will make you want to return. On Sundays the day is honoured with a weekly changing roast alongside the menu

Amongst the puddings look for rhubarb and ginger crumble with ice cream, or marmalade pudding with custard, and their selection of British cheeses is as interesting as one might expect from a place where standards are created, as well as maintained. The list of beers makes a day out for CAMRA enthusiasts obligatory.