The clean, smoke-free atmosphere at Naru is testament to the fact that Korean restaurants can be more than just smoking grills at the table and the ear-splitting buzz of diners. Now that doesn't mean that this Shaftsbury Avenue place does not draw a fair share of patrons; it certainly does, and many are impressed by just the setting, which is done up in with paper lanterns and Korean calligraphy.

The cooking is notable for its simplicity and well presented dishes, and for novices the best way to order may be to seek the advice of the friendly staff. For others the classics are still there - kimchi stew with dumplings and steamed rice, and spicy noodle soup with mixed seafood. The appeal of familiar dishes is indeed fulfilling, so go on and try the non-grease version of crunchy Korean style fried chicken, rib stew with vegetables and chestnuts in a special sauce, and stir-fried glass noodles wrapped in rice paper.