Neptune Inn & Restaurant, The

There is a certain commonality between New England where, as I write, the immediate future of politics in America is being given a sense of direction, and North Norfolk. This is well illustrated in Old Hunstanton where The Neptune offers English coastal tradition in large measure, with white clapboard walls, scale model boats, Lloyd Loom sofas and chairs, pictures of things coastal, all backed up with a roaring fire, fresh flowers, wooden polished floors and traditional food.

Ha! I hear you say, I wondered when you were getting round to that. Well, we are not but Chef Kevin Mangeolles most certainly is, and he is often not looking far for his sources, in fact his carbon footprints are commendably minute.

The dinner à la carte could start with hare ravioli or smoked haddock, saffron soup with smoked haddock brandade, before going on to Aberdeen Angus rib eye with braised beef sauté potatoes, onion puree and red wine sauce, or warm globe artichoke with poached egg watercress and shallot sauce.

Condensed milk rice pudding is served with Orchard Farm quince jam, but for sheer perfection go for the chestnut parfait and yoghurt, honey, almond sorbet.

Without doubt this is total relaxation in a part of England that exudes a very special sort of appeal.