New French Partridge, The

The French Partridge has resumed with great style its position as a pace-setter for fine eating, with rooms, in the East Midlands; for two years what might be termed The Old French Partridge lay mortally wounded, brought down by a random shot of fate. Then, as sometimes happens, along came new Keepers and in some miraculous way a New French Partridge, with even brighter plumage, and redder legs, was created from the old bird.

The saviours were none other than the husband and wife team of Ian Oakenfull and Tanya Banerjee, whose affinity with this distinguished property quickly became apparent. It is a happy relationship in several ways, with Ian's artistic flair in the kitchen linking to Tanya's instinctive feel for good taste and the design challenges that the New Bird offered.

The work involved in this process of restoration came to a head on 5th December 2002 when the New French Partridge resumed its position as a venue for those looking for the qualities that distinguish the leaders in their field.

If ever there was a restaurant with rooms, this is probably it. The same degree of opulence and luxury has been applied to both elements with infinite care and skill, and ten named bedrooms, each name a small capsule of local history, are there to gladden the hearts of the weary, the indulgent and the just plain pleasure-seeking.

As you might by now have begun to suspect the dining room is the hub of events at the rejuvenated bird, with the décor, fittings and accoutrements at their most elegant. From the kitchen emerges a range of dishes designed to explore, titillate and satisfy. Amongst starters expect to find a duo of hare and guinea fowl terrine with sauce gribiche, and an assiette of foie gras with caramelised grapefruit, fig and apple chutney and toasted brioche.

Main courses could include home smoked venison loin with creamed leeks, gnocchi and liquorices jus, or poached fillet of Scottish beef with artichoke fricassee and caramelised onion ice cream. The baked sea bass with tomato, lemon sautéed langoustines, sea urchin roe and truffle crème fraiche is another dish that displays Ian's expertise to the full.

Puddings feature such enticements as hot banana soufflé, and a cheese plate that will leave aficionados of that wonderful food form whooping with delight backs up passion fruit beignet with coconut and pink peppercorn ice cream and a chocolate shot.

The house has an excellent cellar, in two senses. The first, you will be glad to hear, is the one that keeps the array of wines that have passed muster with Ian's knowledgeable nose, at the required temperature; the second has been converted into what is effectively a tapas bar, offering a dazzling array of wines by the glass, furnished with leather armchairs so comfortable that any desire to move on is blown away.

By joining The Tuesday Club you can, amongst other things, be able to taste new dishes under consideration for the regular menu. A private dining room for 12 presents the opportunity to entertain with discretion.

The New French Partridge is an exercise in sybaritic excellence that will bring a smile to the face of those who recollect upon its pleasures.

With ten beautiful bedrooms that came on stream from the end of October 2004, Ian and Tanya are realising their original dream, to find out more do visit their Website