Formerly known to many under another name No 3 York Place has taken on a new role in life and is creating a pleasant stir in the city of Leeds, a place that is also renewing itself.

The young, but obviously going places, Head chef, Martel Smith is producing dishes that please and show great promise. Amongst the starters on the a la carte expect to find cream of cauliflower soup with a Yorkshire Blue cheese sabayon, warm salad of pan-fried lemon sole fillets and pickled vegetables, or ballotine of foie gras with rhubarb compote and ginger brioche.

Main courses in particular display great flair, particularly when offering a new approach to well-loved dishes, witness the belly pork braised in honey and five spice, with roast sea scallop and black pudding, or the baked fillet of cod with a soft mushroom crust, buttered spinach and black noodles.

Hot pistachio soufflé with chocolate sauce and pistachio ice cream is a reasonable conclusion to any meal, and just in case you disagree an assiette of deserts is available, perhaps to prove that I was right.

The wine list could well provide a ruinous end to the evening unless you are very firm with yourself and the sommelier. Or you could let his knowledge and your instincts form a happy alliance and worry about the ruin some other time. The choice is yours.