North by North West at Pool House

Created from 1991 onwards by the Harrison Family, this sybaritic refuge on the unbelievably scenic north-west coast of Scotland provides isolation and tranquillity allied with extreme comfort and good living. For those lovers of the outdoors with real time on their hands there is an enormous range of activities that will work up an appetite to do justice to the skills of Head Chef Daniel Hall and his gifted team. A list of Awards reads like a litany of excellence.

The house has more than 300 years of history to tell, but it certainly owes a great deal to its original builder who had an eye for a site non pareil. Inside the décor is strongly Scots baronial in the best possible taste, combined with more than a touch of kitsch and splendid flights of fancy as in the Whimbrel suite, an indulgent hideaway in the grounds overlooking the sea shore and fast flowing river, perfect for a romantic tryst.

Some of the other suites are named after famous ships of both sides in WW2, and the Nairana Master Suite, with the sea just 15 feet away, takes its theme from the grand palaces of Rajasthan. All are exquisitely furnished with total comfort as the master plan. Hedonistic is a word that continually springs to mind.

The North by Northwest dining room occupies an exceptional location looking straight down the sea loch. Chef Hall received an Acorn Award in 2001 at the age of 26 and was a gold medallist for the Compass culinary team. His former roles have included Head Chef on the Royal Scotsman Train and at Nick Nairn's restaurant with the result that his modern European food is innovative and beautifully presented.

In a location with such a formidable array of talent and ingredients there is ample space for constant fluctuation on the menu - no standard bill of fare here. So what follows includes dishes that regularly please the rapt occupants of Pool's dining room. Starting with an amuse there is a seamless translation to the Arzak style duck egg, artichokes twice, truffle emulsion, peas and morels before moving on to lobster, from Loch Ewe naturally, with mascarpone enriched orzo, endame, and lavender.

The loin of Borders lamb follows a traditional pattern but like a good lawyer's brief the sting is in the detail. So confit belly and Toulouse sausage are in close attendance, with aubergine, tomato jam and that simple but subtle Andalusian migas, or garlic soup, that spreads a gentle frisson of flavour throughout the dish.

At Pool House the cheese tends to follow the French tradition, appearing in the wake of the main course, and could be Valencay with asian pear, pine nut and young leaves, or perhaps some Lincolnshire poacher with plum chutney and walnut-raisin bread. An inspired grouping of flavours surrounds a dessert of ginger tapioca, rhubarb in textures and campari, before navigating a safe passage to the drawing room for coffee and treats.

To imagine anything other than a wine list of exceptional talent would be churlish indeed, and expectation is entirely up to scratch. Yes, there are some very pricey wines here in which to revel, but leaving on one side the sheer delight of studying the list, there are real bargains to be enjoyed also. A good range of half bottles and some very interesting bin ends only serve to add lustre to a list which, if to be found in London would cause a stampede.

Do take time to have a look round their fascinating Website, and not just for details of Naughty Weekends but also the possibilities for weddings, total occupancy bookings and the vital role played by Pool House in military activities during WW2. Please note they do not cater to children under the age of sixteen.