The Bell Hotel and the AA-Rossetted Old Dining Room are some of those features in the life of a community that defines character and fills a significant niche in history, in this case since Tudor times when the Bell Inn, alongside the Barbican Gate and Toll, was a respected place of refreshment at the hub of the port's maritime activity.

Some 700 years later it stands proudly still, grown in stature and respect, overlooking the River Stour and serving a community that extends well beyond the thriving town of Sandwich. With 37 en-suite bedrooms, the Georgian Regency Room that will comfortably accommodate up to 100 guests, and the Stour Conference suite it is the place to which to turn when important events, be they personal or commercial, are afoot.

There is a choice of bedrooms consisting of single, twin, double rooms and suites. Some bedrooms have balconies and river views with others overlooking the roofscape of Sandwich. All have en-suite bathrooms, bespoke toiletries, hair dryers, coffee and tea-making facilities, digital radios and remote controlled televisions and telephones. There is Wi-Fi access throughout the hotel.

If the day ever comes that plaques are placed on the accommodations recommended by Paddy Burt, the Daily Telegraph's much respected hotel reviewer over 18 years, The Bell will have one! The seasonal menus look both to the sea and inland. Starters of beetroot cured salmon, lime and dill crème fraiche and watercress salad, or glazed smoked haddock with Montgomery cheddar omelette, roquette and chives set the scene and vegetarians will approve of a chilled gazpacho soup with tomato and olive bruschetta.

There's plenty of choice, with a rump of Romney Marsh lamb with niçoise, rosemary, garlic fondant and pesto, or local black sea bream roasted on the bone, Charlotte potatoes, sea spinach, baked fennel and herb dressing commanding a steady demand. Pursuing the classical trend a Valrhona dark chocolate tart with orange sorbet pops up for attention, but for sheer artistry local strawberry cheesecake, vanilla anglaise with honeycomb is recommended. There's a trend these days for cheese selections to become more than a little pricey, but here at The Bell a selection of artisan made cheeses accompanied by orchard fruit chutney and Bath Oliver biscuits is commendable in every way, not least as value for money.

A fixed lunch menu offers the sort of choices - four per course - that you know betokens culinary spontaneity. A three course lunch could consist of parfait of chicken livers, toasted brioche, port and red currant reduction followed by fish from South East coast day boats with seasonal accompaniments and finally by a local elderflower pannacotta, poached gooseberries and lemon balm, all at a price that, along with everything else, would justify the trip from the Midlands to Kent alone.

A wine list of over 50 bins amply provides for the needs of anyone but the most pedantic of oenophiles, with a sensible selection by the glass including a Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne house wine that is crying out for you to cast care aside and buy the bottle.

The Bell at Sandwich is one of those places that should be enshrined in our native consciousness, but having survived all those years one doubts if it needs such protection. Their Website, dignified, clear and friendly, like everything else about them, will keep you up to speed on what else they can offer, menu changes and the like.