Old Mill, The

There is something very heartening to see sad old inns, particularly those whose character has refused to bow to neglect, being restored to useful life and becoming part of life's pattern in their particular community.

The Old Mill, a Georgian house of some charm, has been taken in hand by Peach Pubs, with its exterior surroundings such as the Grand Union Canal that borders the garden brought into the overall scheme, and the mill race itself.

The menu is an interesting combination of British and Asian dishes that works in with a deli influence to produce a lively invitation to the modern seeker after exciting cuisine.

The deli board lists cheese, charcuterie, fish, antipasti, fruit and vegetables, and bread, which can enjoyed as starters, nibbles or tapas. More conventional starters could include pressed ham hock terrine, smoked salmon or chicken and duck spring roll.

The steaks are 28 day dry-aged Aberdeenshire and some main courses, such as steamed mussels can also be ordered in starter dimensions. The spring lamb broth, though spice-free has more than a hint of tom yam about it and local sources are well represented including Eastwoods' excellent sausages.

An all day menu also operates, with homemade burgers and smoked haddock risotto, and an excellent Caesar salad.

A relatively short but punchy wine list mingle well with the menu, and at around £22 for two courses, excluding wine, few will quibble with this much needed addition to the local scene.