Old Plough Inn, The

The Old Plough is fortunate in its hosts, David and Claire Cox who go out of their way to welcome guests with the result that a contented blend of villagers and mainly travelled diners enjoy this friendly pub with restaurant to the maximum.

A skilfully added conservatory seats 48 and on good nights there's an enclosed patio for overflow. Chef Adam Palmer's aim is to maintain the English tradition in food, though he omitted to add that he's not above adding the odd twist here and there. A lamb shank may be a good value staple, but at the Old Plough it is presented as never before. Breast of duck comes with a toothsomely rich sauce that lifts the meat to new heights. Vegetables were a trifle bland.

Puddings are generous and well presented, with some original thought displayed on variety. The chocolate hazelnut roulade won acclamation at our table, as did the coffee that followed, mellow and friendly on the palate. The wine list needs to grow if it is to keep pace with the quality of the food.

The Old Plough is kitted out for family parties in the garden and bar meals. Events can be a slight hazard if you are looking for that romantic a deux. This is clearly a place where they are working hard to make it happen, creating a great atmosphere in the process. The day may not be far distant when they have to make workmanlike choices about the direction in which they intend to concentrate.