Old Queens Head, The

In the great pub evolution there have, as always, been winners and losers. The weak have gone to the wall, the strong have survived, and the newcomers have lead the renaissance. The emergence of modest groupings of revitalised pubs has brought some real stars, of which The Old Queen's Head is undoubtedly one, a verdict supported by the award of 'Les Routiers' Pub of the Year 2008

The advantages of an historic building, have been skilfully combined with new ideas, modern management with heart, and an adherence to being British that borders on patriotism. Character and atmosphere is there in abundance, and you will dine in a room that was once a rustic barn, built in 1666 when London was being refashioned by the Great Fire.

The surroundings differ little from the pub. Whether you wish to cultivate an appetite, or walk off an excellent meal, nearby the ancient beech woodlands of Common and Penn Woods provide space for true refreshment as they have done over the centuries. In good King Wenceslas weather there are real fires to stretch out in front of; in summer a sunny terrace beckons with picture post card views over the village church and a large garden in which to find a relaxing spot of your own.

One menu serves all, with choices that ensure everybody will be delighted. Modern British calls the shots, with fresh produce from local suppliers as a priority. From amongst around eight small plate dishes look out for potted Stockings Farm ham with date chutney and OQH sour dough toast, steamed Scottish mussels with leeks, cider and cream, or bubble and squeak with oak smoked bacon, poached egg and Hollandaise sauce.

Main meals follow the same enlightened path with confit duck leg on black pudding hash with purple sprouting broccoli and Madeira jus, baked Barkham blue polenta cake with sautéed leeks, spring onions, chestnut mushrooms and red wine vinaigrette.

Their classic fish pie, making a welcome return in some cases to discerning places of refreshment should not be missed, with an applewood smoked cheddar crust and glazed chantenay carrots.

And talking of enlightenment if you are a natural lover of vegetables but can't stand the unimaginative way in which they are so often presented, be sure to have a field day at OQH with such delights as baked cauliflower cheese, wilted spring greens with bacon and balsamic dressing or skinny chips even.

Marsala roast figs with honey and lavender ice cream, anyone? Well, teeth can be a problem for some, so turn to the steamed apple and sherried raisin roly poly with cinnamon ice cream, or a range of home made ice creams that include condensed milk, raspberry ripple and chocolate fudge.

A short but highly interesting wine list does the business in that direction with great skill, many by the large or smaller glass, and addicts of pudding wine are spoiled almost beyond belief, the list topped by a Hungarian Tokaji Oremus and an Italian vin santo di Capezzana, the 'wine of the Saints'. Was there ever such interesting drinking at prices so kind?

Their straightforward Website is as informative and friendly as the staff themselves.