Old Spot, The

I don't know about Old Spot but certainly the current Hot Spot in the West Country is at Wells, where Ian Bates, one time prodigy of Simon Hopkinson, that relatively unsung hero of the culinary world has set up Old Spot, to be swamped with rave reviews and predictions of success.

The throwing around of money is not a characteristic of the good folk of Wells or its visitors, so pricing has been critical, producing incredibly good food at incredibly bargain prices.

The whole emphasis is on dishes that both sound good and also have strong visual appeal. The lunch menu carries five choices in starters and mains, with four desserts. Amongst dishes to delight are a ceviche of organic salmon with delicately chopped red chilli, some fresh coriander and a smooth avocado purée, braised shoulder of lamb that had been slowly cooked over many hours, then pan-fried as required ensuring the meat has a crisp caramelised finish.

A dessert of peach trifle laced with pistachios provided a finish with a flourish. The wine list is the product of Bill Baker, former child of Avery's, who knew an opportunity when he saw one, and is already highly regarded.

Jay Rayner, writing in The Observer notes that what is needed in the restaurant business is more places that offer the prospect both financially and gastronomically of a three times a week habit. Old Spot would seem to fit into that category perfectly.