In terms of its food, which is well presented and would certainly make me want to eat in the unlikely eventuality that I did not already, the Dog as it is colloquially known, operates at two levels, an elegant brasserie and a hearty carvery. The brasserie is a recent addition and marks a major step forward in their attitude towards food, even if in the past it has invariably been upbeat. The emphasis is on fresh local produce and there is more than a hint of the Mediterranean about some of the dishes. Nor is it only food - the brasserie bar provides a civilised watering hole for those whose tastebuds require a little alcoholic stimulation, let alone a place afterwards to relax over the odd nightcap.

The carvery, as one might expect is less formal and is a meeting place for those with more than average appetites and a rather more louche attitude to eating out, witness the grand piano and the warm glow of candles. The food has a strong traditional leaning, with hefty roasts, fresh seafood and a raft of temptation upon which most leap eagerly aboard, in the form of some dazzling desserts.

Overall there is a good buzz about the place, stemming I suspect from the very top and supported by a realisation that the customer is important, whatever else he or she may also be.