Olive Tree, The

Those who have been absent from the call of pleasure in the recent past should not be surprised to find that what used to be The Wheatsheaf at Banstead has now re-emerged at The Olive Tree after an extensive refit that has retained the more traditional features, and added some new ones. Certainly sports people should not feel deprived and all the modern fittings are there.

In many ways The Olive Tree represents a way ahead that is the preference of many pubs in residential locations, and certainly embraces the food which leans heavily towards Spain, so shut your eyes, inhale deeply and Ola! there you are.

Think Spain nowadays and inevitably tapas come to mind. I sometimes wonder how we in Britain have managed all this time without these juicy little platefuls, unless fridge-grazing was some form of apprenticeship, and that clearly has logistic difficulties when in a restaurant of any substance.

At The Olive Tree tapas have certainly not, like some culinary cuckoo, ousted starters from the menu, and beef carpaccio, tricalore salad, and fresh grilled sardines continue to attract as much as ever. Whilst not everyone is a fan of chicken these days unless it has its pedigree and certificate of demise attached to its person, the wild mushroom, chicken and poppy seed crepe served with a tarragon cream sauce had a certain wild appeal.

Main courses would not be complete without the inclusion of tagliatella carbonara, and fresh fillet of sea bass is served with a champagne and lobster bisque. The other evening at home we served some lamb cutlets from a Suffolk and Texel cross flock on the Shropshire/Herefordshire border. Leaving on one side my natural addiction towards this cut of meat they were quite simply some of the best I have ever tasted, underlining the popularity of lamb in almost any form, but particularly the slow roasted half shoulder served at this restaurant, complimented by a delicate redcurrant and rosemary jus.

A powerful Andalucian paella comes in five formats, including ones with squid ink juices, and seafood. Good local ales and a meticulous wine list combine to provide more than adequate coverage in that all-important area.

The Olive Tree's Website receives regular attention and serves to keep its many fans, both present and would-be, well informed.