For those who find The Lygon Arms a trifle overpowering in whatever way, Oliver's is the answer. Carrying the same high degree of excellence of its parent, to which it is attached, but with its own entrance, the name is well-chosen and Cromwell, who by all accounts enjoyed his victuals as well as the next man, would surely have approved.

The emphasis is on traditional food served in a modern way. Several of the starters can be obtained as main courses but my choice would be for the slow baked tomato and spring onion soup, an enchanting combo which, given the right critical balance, is memorable.

A real piece of indulgence would follow in the form of spicy pork dumplings with baked aubergine, soft noodles and sweet and sour sauce. The link with next door could be celebrated by that wonderful iced Lygon port parfait with wild cherries and mint in Kirsch brandy.