The Orchid Restaurant is very much the showpiece of this strategically placed hotel which certainly gives substance to the claim of Torquay to be the Riviera of England.

Three menus are offered, an a la carte, Le Menu special and a table d'hote. All three are appealing; we have concentrated on the a la carte. Mind you concentrating on anything other than the commanding view is not easy.

Starters can range from a chilled tomato soup with crème frâiche and basil oil, through a carpaccio of tuna, celeriac remoulade and toasted sesame, to a foie gras ballotine with smoked duck hazelnut salad and lime gelee.

Main courses pursue the same level of care and presentation with Devon beef fillet, braised oxtail, wild mushroom tortellini and cep foam a real favourite. Nor need the vegetarians feel anything but loved, with a button mushroom and fresh pea risotto, accompanied by a fried duck egg and truffle cream.

Desserts are, as ever, just wonderful. Iced white chocolate and cointreau mousse with a praline biscuit and port wine reduction makes for a good blend of flavours and for cheese buffs the Godminster cheddar is served with spiced pear and toasted walnuts. The wine list is a well-travelled production, helpfully annotated to make the most of relationships between the menu and the list.