Orrery Restaurant

Orrery is a model of elegance, sophistication and attention to detail. Dishes, full of the tastes of France, include treats such as Pyrenean milk-fed lamb, Cornish sea bass and, for those in quest of serious diversion, the Menu Gourmand. Last year Orrery received a Michelin Star, which had followed four AA Rosettes in 2005, and its food, service and atmosphere are of a high order.

In addition to the restaurant, with beautiful views of Marylebone Church gardens, there is also an intimate bar and sun-soaked roof terrace where al fresco pleasure is available. And even if the sun is lacking sometimes there is no lack of choices from broadly five separate menus.

First courses of smoked Scottish salmon with a soft quail's egg sets the tone for some nine first courses which also include oysters, champagne sabayon and Oscietra caviar, or roast sea scallops with cauliflower, and morel velouté. Risotto is not always the most winning dish, but as done here with truffles it becomes a creditable alternative. The old tunes are often the best and the confit duck and foie gras ravioli with Madeira consommé still commands an audience.

A rather different take on Dover sole fillets the fish, then combines them with wild mushrooms and almonds to create a dish with mega flavour power. Meat dishes are outstandingly good, starting with lamb fillet, sweetbread and gratin dauphinois near the top of the pops, and beef Rossini with sauce périgourdine is certainly in the same class. But it gets better and braised pig's trotters whilst possibly not quite as elegant as either of the previous two dishes, has a distinction all its own.

As with any classic restaurant the tarte tatin is obligatory, served here with crème frâiche and quite definitely for two persons - what a nice idea. If time is no object 20 minutes or so could be invested in the production of a prune and Armagnac soufflé, served with praline ice cream and mingling well, dare I suggest, with the lamb fillet touched upon above. My antennae tell me that those who appreciate decent cheese find their way to Orrery, and the selection of farmhouse cheeses, selected and ripened by Eric Charriaux, makes for an interesting end to the meal.

The Menu Potager and Menu Gourmand make for even more excited anticipation, but not both on the same night. Each of the seven courses has a recommendation from the sommelier, and even if the food was not incitement enough, and heaven knows it should be, the wine would certainly do the trick.

A notable but expensive wine list rouses interest and for those unable to fly high there is some relief at the lower end. Robert Giorgione, formerly of Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols, presides as sommelier, and under his command regular wine tastings are held. Wines by the glass are legion, and a popular line is a carafe of house wine of the Day, which at £14 a carafe, the equivalent of half a bottle, makes for sensible drinking.

Their Website will tell you lots more, but essentially this is one of those restaurants where you read the crit, throw out the cat and call a cab.