Jeremy Lord, mine host of The Coach House, is not a man to do things by halves, particularly when he has the backing of his head chef, Pat O'Donovan, a man who has progressed from training at Loughborough, through London's Savoy and the Metropole at Birmingham.

So, some fairly hefty new building on to the back of the old Halfway Inn and hey presto! we have The Coach House, with its Ostler's Restaurant. Management of many old country inns that have been thus transformed are prone to telling anyone who will listen how comfortably the former regulars, in fact rendered manic by the changes, mingle with the new customers, many of whom may have travelled from afar. But here at South Luffenham it really does happen and there is a good friendly mix in the bar.

A seasonal menu prevails, with game as a strong option. Jeremy Lord is a keen sportsman and his not infrequent travels to Scotland, never mind the local estates, yield splendid additions to the Coach House larder. Trout comes from nearby Rutland Water, via Kingfisher at Brixham oddly enough, where it gets smoked. Michael Culpin, the Uppingham butcher produces much of the well-hung meat. Each course offers some eight choices. A meal of smoked Rutland trout with horseradish, a boned oven-roasted whole partridge with potatoes Parisienne, finishing with chocolate, brandy fruit and nut terrine bore ample evidence of the credentials of all concerned.

Even more good news, Jeremy Lord is a real connoisseur of wine, with a list, the upper echelons of which had me reaching for the file marked 'second mortgage', that is clearly his pride and joy. Worry not, there are some real bargains at the more approachable level. Service is relaxed with charm, there is good parking and should you succumb to one too many of those venerable bottles, the accommodation is very comfortable.