Ostrich, The

As long as the food and drink are right, certain diners are not too concerned about the location, but there has to be a sort of frisson of respect and interest when eating in the third oldest inn in UK. This is The Ostrich's proud claim and the fireplaces, crooked stairs and cobbled courtyard are all there with a host of other antique features.

Chef Allan Earl brings his expertise at The Ostrich, and offers a menu that embraces local ingredients and brings forth imaginative dishes at value for money prices.

Starters could include the wonderful crab, sweet corn and cheddar cheese baked nachos; chicken liver pâté with homemade piccalilli and wholemeal toast, and fresh soup of the day that should not be lightly passed over. Thai spiced fishcakes make a very popular starter, served here with lime mayonnaise and pak choi salad.

From amongst the main courses the traditional toad in the hole with roast potatoes and onion gravy are some of the best along with the tremendously good confit of duck with Oriental infusions, plum glaze and chilli fried noodles. Casserole of pig's cheeks make a very popular middle course, served here with root vegetables, roast sage and onion dumplings.

Naturally fillet of ostrich steak Wellington features strongly and of its kind there are few better examples than their homemade burger, with a choice of cheese, bacon or poached egg. Steaks come with frites or chunky chips and a choice of toppings that includes melted Stilton. The Ostrich looks after tradition and the sight of a horseshoe gammon steak with French fried egg and frites brings joy to many a hungry customer.

Puddings are not for the faint-hearted either, with warm ginger cake with orange sauce and clotted cream and simply 'The Best Ever' sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream and toffee sauce. They justifiably make a great thing of their excellent range of coffee and tea, notably a double espresso served with a scoop of ice cream.

Cask conditioned ales included DB1 from The Dorking Brewery and Doombar from Rock in Cornwall. The wine list is straightforward with quite a few choice available by the glass, including champagne. Dick Turpin, who used the inn as a refuge, would certainly have approved.

Their Website tells the story well, with a fascinating historical background on this ancient inn, and updates on events and menu changes.