Ostrich, The

As long as the food and drink are right, certain diners are not too concerned about the location, but there has to be a sort of frisson of respect and interest when eating in the third oldest inn in UK. This is The Ostrich's proud claim and the fireplaces, crooked stairs and cobbled courtyard are all there with a host of other antique features.

Chef Allan Earl brings his expertise at The Ostrich, and offers a menu that embraces local ingredients and brings forth imaginative dishes at value for money prices.

Starters could include the wonderful cajun crayfish popcorn with red pepper ketchup, butternut squash and cashew nut spring rolls and the fresh soup of the day that should not be lightly passed over. Braised pork cheek makes a very popular starter, served here with roasted onion risotto and a cider glaze. From amongst the main courses the traditional butcher's sausages with mustard mash and onion gravy are some of the best along with tremendously good wok fried Chinese BBQ pork belly with crispy noodles.

Naturally ostrich steak Wellington features strongly, and a carpetbagger steak comes with beer gravy and mashed potatoes. Of its kind there are few better examples than their homemade burger, with a choice of cheese, bacon or poached egg. Steaks come with frites or chunky chips and a choice of toppings that includes melted Stilton. The Ostrich looks after tradition and the sight of a horseshoe gammon steak with French fried egg and frites brings joy to many a hungry customer.

Puddings are not for the faint-hearted either, with ginger parkin and maple custard and simply 'The Best Ever' sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream and toffee sauce. They justifiably make a great thing of their excellent range of coffee and tea, notably a double espresso served with a scoop of ice cream.

Cask conditioned ales included DB1 from The Dorking Brewery and Doombar from rock in Cornwall. The wine list is straightforward and nine are served by the glass, including champagne. Dick Turpin, who used the inn as a refuge, would certainly have approved.

Their Website tells the story well, with a fascinating historical background on this ancient inn, and updates on events and menu changes.