Ostrich, The

Personally, as long as the food and drink is right I cannot bring myself to get too concerned about the location, but there has to be a sort of frisson of respect and interest when eating in the third oldest inn in UK. This is their proud claim and the fireplaces, crooked stairs and cobbled courtyard are all there with a host of other antique features that have sensibly been allowed to survive the recent refurbishment.

Chef Chris Perkins, who claims inspiration from Gordon Ramsay and Thomas Keller, as well as experience at the famous Star at Harome, offers a menu that embraces local ingredients, follows the seasons and well deserves its three cuisine choices.

Starters could include the wonderful lamb goujons with an apple and mint dip, a smoked haddock chowder and the fresh soup of the day that should not be lightly passed over. From amongst the main courses the traditional butcher's sausages with mustard mash and onion gravy are some of the best along with a tremendously good sea bass fillets with lemon and dill risotto and parmesan crisp.

Naturally ostrich steak Wellington features strongly, and sticky wild boar comes with dauphinoise potatoes. Of its kind there are few better examples than their homemade burger, with a choice of cheese, bacon or poached egg. Steaks come with frites or chunky chips and a choice of toppings that includes melted Stilton.

Puddings are not for the faint-hearted either, with sticky date pudding and apple and pear crumble with vanilla ice cream well to the fore. They justifiably make a great thing of their excellent range of coffee and tea, notably a double espresso served with a ball of ice cream.

Any inn that lists London Pride and Old Speckled Hen amongst its draught beers has to be good. The wine list is straightforward and nine are served by the glass, including champagne. Dick Turpin, who used the inn as a refuge, would certainly have approved.

Their Website tells the story well, with a fascinating historical background on this ancient inn, and updates on events and menu changes.