Ottolenghi - Islington

Ottolenghi takes a rather simplistic approach to the décor and layout, with two large white melamine tables, round which everyone sits, in a well lit white room could produce an austere effect, but somehow it doesn't. Everything here is concentrated on food, from its creation to the point where it gladdens the heart, and appetite, of the beholder. Having passed the initial hurdle of the shop with its display of home made breads, cakes and salads - but who knows what might happen on the way out - you find a place and your starter arrives.

Three kinds of bread, with olive oil to hand, a small glass of aubergine puree, a portion of green lentil salad, together with a small herb and roasted pine nut salad. Phew!! Already I feel purified, or de-toxed or something better than the state in which I arrived. Perhaps the seven hour cooked lamb with root vegetables to follow, or prawns and scallops in a Thai sauce, followed by chocolate brownie with crème fraiche ice cream.

It may come as no surprise to hear that the place is heaving, which in some ways is counter-productive in a restaurant that is bare of soft furnishings, but for an evening, or lunch, where the quality of the food is at the head of the agenda you will go a long way before you do any better. This is a good place to start your evening at the theatre, for almost anything - except a romantic a deux