Ottolenghi takes a rather simplistic approach to the décor and layout, with two large white melamine tables, round which everyone sits, in a well lit white room that could produce an austere effect. However, everything here is concentrated on food, from its creation to the point where it gladdens the heart, and appetite, of the beholder.

Char-grilled broccoli with chilli and garlic, and roasted aubergine with miso, spring onion, chilli and toasted sesame, or maple roasted carrots, phew! You may already feel purified, de-toxed or something better than the state in which you arrived. Perhaps the glazed organic salmon to follow or seared beef fillet with a daily changing sauce, followed by dark chocolate mousse will return you to normality

It may come as no surprise to hear that the place is heaving, which in some ways is counter-productive in a restaurant that is bare of soft furnishings, but for an evening, or lunch, where the quality of the food is at the top of the agenda you will go a long way before you do any better.