Oyster Lounge, The

The object of enthusiastic comment by an ever increasing army of fans this Warwick restaurant obviously hits the button when it comes to Asian cooking. On arrival you are confronted by a completely genuine 17th century front, but do not be deterred. Inside the décor is modern, not as a slap in the face to this venerable old Tudor building, but drawing instead upon its comfortable contours to create lively and welcoming surroundings in which to enjoy Oriental food of a very high order at prices that can only be described as very reasonable indeed.

If the cuisine has a preference it has to be towards Chinese, though this still leaves plenty of space for other cuisines, not least Thai, still making strides forward in the keenly competitive field of alternative cooking styles that has made Britain such an exciting place in which to eat out.

The progression of a thoroughly enjoyable evening at The Oyster Lounge customarily starts with drinks at the bar where some pretty moving cocktails provide an experience not to be missed, guaranteed to bring the quietest member of your party to life. There is an unhurried pace as befits a restaurant of such oriental leanings, but the occasional suggestion in the air of what lies ahead is unlikely to leave you loitering too long.

The starter course is the moment when, if you did not already know, you understand why the Oyster Lounge is so named. Massive fresh Loch Fyne rock oysters are served either raw with wasabi, soya sauce and ginger on a bed of crushed ice, or steamed with ginger, spring onions and soya sauce, or fried even with a Chinese five-spice coating. Nibbles of Thai prawn crackers or tempura courgettes refresh the palate for what lays ahead, including the renowned tom yum soup, always a favourite, and won ton soup a simply delicious Chinese alternative.

An impressive array of dim sum includes Shanghai hand-tied, minced prawn, pork and spring onion with won ton pastry tied into a knot, an Oriental take on the traditional prawn cocktail, Chinese barbequed ribs with lemon, or Japanese seafood crispy rolls, rice paper rolls filled with seafood and vegetables covered in Japanese breadcrumbs. As ever authentic aromatic crispy duck tends to steal the show, and at The Oyster is a real house speciality.

Should your salivary juices be at a low ebb for whatever reason, I defy them to sulk a moment longer after a view of the main course selections. Singapore vegetable fried rice is one of those dishes that makes hardened carnivores consider life beyond flesh, but then the eye catches sight of suckling pig belly ribs, a half rack of the little beauty, or Thai red curry tiger prawns, an uncompromisingly hot dish that sorts the men from the boys.

Talking of which, you have not been to culinary heaven until you sample their giant tigers, pan fried with a delicately spiced scallop sauce, sometimes known as XO. Tender pieces of leg of lamb are cooked in Thai Masaman curry with lemongrass, coconut milk and chilli.

Service is just as it should be and the wine list is an intelligent pass at blending food from a range of continents with an international list that takes heed of the special influences at work.

The Oyster Lounge Restaurant is the sort of place that lovers of these wonderful cuisines hope to go to when the grim reaper comes calling - in the meantime, don't wait for him, just head off to Warwick with all speed, and present our compliments to Shaila Man.