Papillon

Papillon has been described as resembling an opulent townhouse in Paris, and it is by no means a faulty description. There are the traditional plush banquettes, gilt and mirrors, the florists have had an absolute field day, and tables that are a credit in double clothed napery and crystal, with steak knives from Thiers, muted colours and trendy lighting all combine to delight

The zinc bar, parquetry floor, softly glowing lights speak subtly of France, to the point where you could be forgiven for supposing that the creator of this Petit France must surely have been a Frenchman. But not a bit of it - he is Danish-born Soren Jessen, and Papillon is by no means his only restaurant.

What he has created is without doubt a neighbourhood restaurant, but not as many of us know them. Neighbours in Chelsea are a breed unto themselves, and could be described as Sloaney, so this is the neighbourliness of discretion and restraint against a background of well-mannered music that does not obtrude. Service is measured and equally unobtrusive.

By Chelsea standards, prices are extraordinarily reasonable given the care and thought that goes into every aspect of this well crafted and refined celebration of the Gallic approach to the serious business of fuelling the inner being.

Amongst eight or so choices of entrée (how much more elegant than 'starter') expect to find game terrine with poilane toast, traditional steak tartare with salad, foie gras with layers of pears and toasted pain d' epice. Salads are divided between the four points of the compass, with a centre option, and embrace stuffed ducks neck, confit potato, pan fried snails, French beans, walnuts, seafood salad and blue cheese between them, to name but a few.

For the main event look out for fillet of wild turbot braised in champagne with chicory, pan fried Dover sole meunière with steamed potatoes and French beans, roast rack of lamb with gratin dauphinois and roast garlic, or beef fillet with French fries and pepper sauce. The wild mushroom Charlotte with spinach and emulsion sauce does not have to be bought for two, although the roast veal chop with mashed potatoes and French beans does.

A menu du Marché offers 2 and 3 course meals which give excellent value. These truly are neighbourhood prices for menus that offer fish vol au vent or venison sausage with braised cabbage, followed by mains of confit salmon with crushed cauliflower or roast lamb with yellow beans and garlic cream ending with a crème caramel.

But the high spot at Papillon is the wine list, a vast collection of excellence that is quite rightly their pride and joy, starting with over 20 by the glass, a few bottles under £20, going on up the scale through an eye-watering £2000 for a '97 Montrachet Grand Cru. As should be expected many are French, but whoever put this outstanding selection together was by no means blind to the rest of the wine producing globe. Should you require some guidance through this paradise expert Sommelier help is always on hand.

Click on their Website for seasonal menu changes and an exploration of fine wines.