Papillon

Papillon has been described as resembling an opulent townhouse in Paris, and it is by no means a bad description. There are the traditional plush banquettes, gilt and mirrors, the florists have had an absolute field day, and tables that are a credit in double clothed napery and crystal, with steak knives from Thiers, muted colours and trendy lighting.

The zinc bar, parquetry floor, softly glowing lights speak subtly of France, to the point where you could be forgiven for supposing that the creator of this Petit France must surely have been a Frenchman. But not a bit of it - he is Danish-born Soren Jessen, and Papillon is by no means his only restaurant.

What he has created is without doubt a neighbourhood restaurant, but not as many of us know them. Neighbours in Chelsea are a breed unto themselves, and could be described as Sloaney, so this is the neighbourliness of discretion and restraint against a background of well-mannered music that does not obtrude. Service is measured and equally unobtrusive.

By Chelsea standards prices are extraordinarily reasonable given the care and thought that goes into every aspect of this well crafted and refined celebration of the Gallic approach to the serious business of fuelling the inner being.

Amongst eight or so choices of entrée (how much more elegant than 'starter') expect to find baby artichoke barigoule with smoked bacon jus and fennel tortellini, snails baked in garlic butter, or tartare de boeuf traditionnel with salad, Salads are divided between the four points of the compass, with a centre option, and embrace lardons, pan fried snails, French beans, walnuts, seafood salad and blue cheese between them, to name but a few.

For the main event look out for roasted turbot with vegetables in a brown jus, pan fried Dover sole meuniere with steamed potatoes and French beans, roast partridge with confit onions, French beans and girolles, or beef fillet with French fries and pepper sauce. Chateaubriand Rossini with spinach puree and rosti does not have to be bought for two, although the roast veal chop with aligot potatoes and French beans does.

A menu du Marché offers 2 courses with 2 choices in each, for £19. A superb value lunch/early bird menu gives 3 courses with 3 choices each for £16.50, or £14.50 for 2. These truly are neighbourhood prices for menus that offer pea soup with poached egg, quail and egg salad, Provencal vegetable tart or pan fried red mullet with purple sprouting broccoli, followed by Bourdaloue tart with vanilla ice cream or cheese with toast and salad

But the high spot at Papillon is the wine list, a vast collection of excellence that is quite rightly their pride and joy, starting with over 20 by the glass, a few bottles under £20, going on up the scale through an eye-watering £1,750 for a '97 Montrachet Grand Cru. As should be expected many are French, but whoever put this outstanding selection together was by no means blind to the rest of the wine producing globe. Should you require some guidance through this paradise expert Sommelier help is always on hand.

Click on their Website for seasonal menu changes and an exploration of fine wines.