Paris Bistro has that indisputable French look, with pastel walls, delicate lighting, yellow chairs offset by the dark blue wine glass stems and soft music playing in the background. Tables are set so far apart that an eavesdropper could feel thoroughly deprived but there's plenty of area to accommodate water jugs, glasses, vegetable bowls, et al.

The menu, although balanced, throws in a few surprises like bang bang chicken, gambas pil-pil and flat mushrooms with ratatouille topped with Somerset brie. Main courses also merit exploration, with the flavour of grilled corn-fed chicken enhanced by the Serrano ham wrap accompanied by Madeira jus and new potatoes, and apricot and pine nut rack of lamb resting on a potato rösti and served with a rosemary jus.

Paris Bistro's loyalists have taken well to the 'nothing in between' menu where you can choose any number of starters and progressively move on to ordering desserts.