Parkers the Brasserie, at The Hotel on the Park, is a stylish and trendy destination with walnut tables and polished oak flooring presenting a stunning contrast to the period façade of the 18th century building. Chef Kevin Harris and his kitchen team deserve plaudits for being loyal to the seasons and at the same time demonstrating skill and dexterity in serving up some tasty and artfully presented dishes.

Starters such as salmon cannelloni with shellfish bisque and saffron foam, or natural smoked haddock risotto with poached egg and oscietra caviar are an early indicator that imagination is alive and well here, though the temptation of a duo of foie gras, ham hock terrine and chicken liver parfait could easily lead some pleasantly astray.

Move on to the fillet of brill with smoked bacon, petit pois fricassee and langoustine butter, and roasted loin of monkfish with crayfish, creamed celeriac and baby leek. Originality shows with the slow cooked belly of Gloucestershire Old Spot accompanied by seared scallops and garlic confit potatoes. Nor do the puddings allow the pace to falter and the baked chocolate molleaux with clotted cream is a real piece de resistance.