The popularity of patisseries in London and elsewhere is a longstanding tribute to human indulgence. When spirits are low there are few better kick-starts than a visit to the nearest purveyor of wonderful cakes, sticky, creamy confections that melt in the mouth, leaving a comfortable feeling of having scored one up on whatever malaise is afflicting you.

Madam Valerie, a lady of Belgian extraction, knew all about this when she established her first patisserie in Firth Street in 1926. Some years later the Luftwaffe, with typical insensitivity, obliterated the place, but not Madam who moved round the corner to the present site in Compton Street, now much patronised by media people, celebrities and art students, who adore its Parisian informality.

There are now 31 Valeries in the UK. In addition to the most gorgeous confections, some of them also do breakfast, which in its own way is another propper-up of human frailty, however transient. Evening meals are also served at Patisserie Valerie.