Petit Paris, Le

Established by Frederick and Philipe in 1998 Petit Paris seeks to maintain l'entente cordiale, that mysterious umbilical cord that has bound together Scotland and France for several centuries now, not least via a common interest in matters of cuisine.

Their Grassmarket, gaily-painted restaurant, with the customary blends of cellars and ground floor rooms offers French cooking of a high standard. Should we start with steamed mussels in a rich creamy blue cheese sauce les moules au Bleu d'Auvergne? The coq au vin is a test of any truly French restaurant and Petit Paris emerges with its head held high, exhibiting the sort of care and skills which are a feature of their daily performance.

But the final touch comes with the desserts, where a range of crepes competes only with a wonderful selection of French cheeses. You can select from a snappy little list or quaff decent house wine at £13.90 a bottle. For my part I would stay with the House claret reserve at £15.90 a bottle, incredible value for wine of such integrity.