Pheasant Inn at Admaston, The

A homely and welcoming place on the western flank of Telford where it begins to be swallowed up by Shropshire countryside, The Pheasant was taken over by Sue and Richard Fletcher in 2007 and after the traditional refurbishment has become again the popular inn it used to be. In particular the food, which could be described as serious brasserie, is a delight with hardly a dish that did not have instant appeal.

A starter of warm locally made black pudding with dry cured crispy bacon and field mushrooms on olive oil toast was superb, and the grilled crostinis of Wrekin White and Newport cheeses supremely tasty. Fishinabox supply the daily caught fresh fish and on our visit fillet of Musselburgh mackerel with a side dish of proper chips did the business, though the grilled Newlyn day boat Dover sole had a narrow escape.

Gammon steak was of a high standard, served with Ma Fletcher's Yorkshire sauce or honey glazed pineapple, a close run choice with warm chicken, Shropshire Blue and crispy bacon salad giving a new slant on Caesar (who had his town of Wroxeter just up the road).

Frankly, desserts were a bit of a struggle, but duty called and so did Richard's superb raspberry and white chocolate crème brûlée, with an entirely superfluous but hopelessly delicious Top House Farm ice cream on top. A short but perfectly adequate wine list from John Horton at Addison's completed the pleasure.