Pheasant Inn, The

Under new ownership (2006) the Pheasant is embarking upon a new phase in its life, with Aaron Sheriff as the new Head Chef. His policy is to use the best of the local ingredients which, when you stop to think about it, is far and away the best, never mind most acceptable way of doing things.

So what is Aaron up to? First of all a sensible ten starters which could include soup of the day, a reasonable option now that chefs have learned the art of making really good soup, even if some isolated pockets of packet-pushers still exist in places; smoked duck and black pudding salad with a red wine syrup, a very good smoked salmon and prawn platter with capers, sauce and brown bread, or that old faithful, Thai fish cakes.

Twelve or so main courses call upon pheasant breast with sage and onion stuffing, slow roasted half shoulder of lamb, the pie of the week with all the trimmings, and mushroom carbonara with baked ciabatta bread. For my money it would have to be fillet of pork on a bed of bubble and squeak with a cider and mustard sauce.

It is inns like these that keep us all going. Minimum fuss, good quality cooking, good local ales, often a short but perfectly adequate wine list, all at affordable prices. Magic!