Pig's Ear, The

Above this pub in Chelsea is a civilised dining room that would do credit to a gentleman's club, with accoutrements to match. Described in some quarters as a gastropub I am not so sure I would agree. Whatever you choose to call it the overall effect is one of good food in comfortable surroundings, a refreshing lack of the clutter that some places have to fill niches and ledges that do not need filling, and a menu that is challenging, in the nicest way.

Consider the caramelised smoked eel with fondant potato, the roast poussin on truffled leeks with pomme sarladaise, or salt marsh lamb shanks with caramelised pearl onions and mash. A nice finishing touch could be a small copper pot of autumnal fruit crumble.

Wine has been given the priority it deserves and whilst those downstairs may be disposing of serious quantities of good ales and other brews, drinking upstairs is taken in a rather more measured manner. The concept is attractive in perhaps more a mannish kind of way, though I can think of a number of female friends who would fit in pretty well too.