Pine Marten, The

The Pine Marten is an attractive country house that has been lovingly restored, with a thoroughly modern feel but retaining the character of the original building. Upstairs there is a twelve bedroom hotel. It is one of those pubs that have surfaced on the mainstream of casual eating in the UK in the last ten years and are taking an increasing share of the market, evidenced by their growth in numbers and the popularity of what they have to offer. If this results in a 'type' there is certainly no harm in that.

Contemporary pubs such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have an enclosed rear garden with an ornamental pond as a centrepiece, providing some 100 seats as an optional al fresco eating out space, and last, but by no means least, a roomy and well stocked bar where you can actually get served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously.

If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Pine Marten provides ample evidence that this is true. But of course there are other factors, not least of which is the food and drink. The term 'gastropub' covers a multitude of blessings and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Spanish tapas of stuffed pequillo pepper, tortilla, Parma ham and sardines, a baked Camembert with rustic bread and onion marmalade, Greek mezze of taramasalata with humus, tzatziki, feta and flatbread, or a pizzette with garlic, rocket and Parmesan.

Amongst the starters, there is soup of the day, smoked ham with poached egg and muffin, chicken liver parfait, crayfish and salmon ravioli or caramelised onion tart. Look, too, for Black Pearl scallops when the market is right. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer tandoori chicken with spinach, mango, cucumber and mint, for the seafood fiends some seared salmon Caesar with marinated anchovies and parmesan or roasted squash, goats cheese, cherry tomato and rocket.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella and basil, another with pepperoni, chorizo and jalapeno or the delicious duck, plum sauce and spring onion option.

The grills for hearty eaters are well worth trying and choices include pork chops and salmon among others. All are served with frites, garlic butter, brandy peppercorn sauce, béarnaise, burnt tomato and onion salsa or mango and chilli. For the big event there is always a fish of the day on request. The steak burger with cheese, onion and mustard mayo is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. Rack of lamb with chorizo as well as venison and wild mushroom or the creamy risotto add further dimensions to a wide choice range.

Well presented supporting dishes includes baby potatoes, Belgian frites and mayo, and greens, leeks and peas. For those who have to be lashed to a plank to induce them to eat vegetables, try the honey roasted carrots, altogether different from the all too often steamed variety, which may be more healthy, but are regarded as pretty dismal by most of us.

For desserts resort to the blackboard, where there is always a good display, often with some of the local cheeses to set the buffs alight.

The Pine Marten stocks a wide range of beers, both well loved local draught ales and bottled from further afield. The wine list covers plenty of territory from traditional clarets to Pinot Grigio, and champagne by the glass or bottle is always available. Service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub.

For up to date information please refer to their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.