Pizza Express - Harpenden

Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Since Spring 2007 Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have recently introduced even more Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Salsiccia.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their tortellini, pasta shells stuffed with meat and subtle combination of cream, ham and grana padano, or the nostrana salad with new potatoes, torn chicken, avocado, red peppers, green beans, mixed leaves and parsley topped with a free range egg and served with baked dough sticks and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their mildly-oaked Italian Chardonnay from Cercasole, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from La Tunella, while the house wines are very drinkable indeed.