PJ's Bar & Grill - South Kensington

We say Modern American, and somehow one tends to assume that everything that comes out of America is modern. But PJ's Bar & Grill has more than a touch of tradition about it and old fashioned might be a better description, though there's nothing creaky about the service and atmosphere which is well up to date.

Their long established record for providing the ultimate location in which to enjoy a weekend brunch in the South Kensington area remains unblemished. But for most the target is more likely to be a good evening meal over which to celebrate some event, however trifling, irrelevant even.

So after absorbing some rocket fuel in the form of a selection from their list of cocktails, amongst which the infamous Bloody Caesar is supreme, you will be in better shape to take an inspired shot at choosing from the menu which has embraced the English culinary genre with commendable skill.

Stilton cheese is many a gourmet's delight, but the insiders will tell you that the Colston Bassett variety has that special something which sets it apart, and also makes it an ideal companion to cauliflower in a delicious creamy soup. One of life's little delights is a white Cromer crab, served with an artichoke salad, each an ideal foil to the other, and here they have it off to perfection

On then to the main event where a tranche of that wonderful fish, the halibut, shares the plate with haricot blanc, wild ceps and chanterelles. We had a croquet lawn once, overlooking the Firth of Clyde, where most mornings in season a fresh crop of chanterelles used to offer us their delicate taste to us, and it was getting too chilly by then to linger over the hoops anyway.

A cassoulet will have been slow cooked and contains a spicy pork sausage element that lingers fondly on the palate, but for many the homemade linguine, with Scottish lobster, chilli and cilantro provides the highlight of the evening.

Side dishes, which some tend to avoid through sheer boredom, are made exciting and it's all too easy to get carried away, leaving less room than one might wish to fully appreciate the range of desserts that beckon alluringly. A pistachio crème brûlée and cherry soup certainly attracts attention, and for those who insist on their rice pudding, there it is, served with Seville orange marmalade, though I expect they would find some raspberry jam instead if you ask nicely.

'Selections of ice cream and sorbets' can occasionally produce disappointing results, but happily that is not true at PJ's. I was a touch saddened that no American cheese appeared on the selection, but then thoughts of the carbon footprint crossed my mind and I was instantly racked with guilt. What sacrifices our newly found concern with the future of the planet is making upon us!

Time perhaps to take refuge in some of the fine malt whiskies that grace the bar, or another of those stimulating cocktails that help take your mind off the size of the hole in outer space and other less weighty distractions. Find out more on their Website.