PJ's Bar & Grill - South Kensington

We say Modern American, and somehow one tends to assume that everything that comes out of America is modern. But PJ's Bar and Grill has more than a touch of tradition about it and old fashioned might be a better description, though there's nothing creaky about the service and atmosphere which is well up to date.

Their long established record for providing the ultimate location in which to enjoy a weekend brunch in the South Kensington area remains unblemished. But for most the target is more likely to be a good evening meal over which to celebrate some event, however trifling, irrelevant even.

So after absorbing some rocket fuel in the form of a selection from their list of cocktails, amongst which the infamous Sazerac is supreme, you will be in better shape to take an inspired shot at choosing from the menu which has embraced the English culinary genre with commendable skill.

Stilton cheese is many a gourmet's delight, but the insiders will tell you that the Colston Bassett variety has that special something which sets it apart. One of life's little delights is a tuna tartare, served with avocado salsa and shredded spring onions, each an ideal foil to the other, and here they have it off to perfection

On then to the main event where a whole sea bass arrives char-grilled and shares plate with lemon and rosemary, red onion and fennel salad.

The roast duck breast with celeriac dauphinoise and puy lentil broth lingers fondly on the palate, but for many a 28 day aged premium 10oz rib eye steak provides the highlight of the evening.

Side dishes, which some tend to avoid through sheer boredom, are made exciting and it's all too easy to get carried away, leaving less room than one might wish to fully appreciate the range of desserts that beckon alluringly. Vanilla crème brûlée and tiramisu with Marsala syrup certainly attracts attention, and for those who insist on their Valrhona chocolate fondant, there it is, served with pistachio ice cream.

'Selections of ice cream and sorbets' can occasionally produce disappointing results, but happily that is not true at PJ's. Time perhaps to take refuge in some of the fine malt whiskies that grace the bar, or another of those stimulating cocktails that help take your mind off other less weighty distractions. Find out more on their Website.