One of The Plough's claims to fame is that it was formerly run by Barbara Windsor, a lady who truly believed in the work ethic. She would probably hardly recognise it after the makeover - not that it's bad, plenty of modern traditional, if you get my drift, but definitely symbolising a change of direction.

By means that I know not The Plough has avoided the trap that ensnares all too many such resurrected failed boozers, keeping both its authenticity and succeeding brilliantly on the food which after all is what it's mainly about.

A three course meal here can be doubly enjoyed because its darned good, as well as being incredibly good value for money. Typically, expect to order something along the lines of cauliflower velouté with truffle oil, followed by roasted breast of Gressingham duck with pomme purée, savoy cabbage and bacon, and finishing with a dark chocolate terrine and orange sorbet that is positively orgasmic.

So, good vibes all round, the sort of thing that Ms Windsor would have been much chuffed about. Cheers!