Plough Wavendon, The

The Plough is a pleasant red brick substantial building, completely at ease with its surroundings, offering a warm welcome within easy distance of the Milton Keynes conurbation and run by a team who take a genuine pride in what they do. The range of cuisine covers a real enthusiasm for La Francais and demonstrates that here food is something to be taken seriously in the first instance, before the elements of pleasure and satisfaction are allowed free rein.

A poached pear with a honeyed red wine reduction ticks all the boxes, before going back to the glass box for the afternoon - well, with a bit of luck it's better than that; either way The Plough can compete successfully. The usual two or three course option is given and you will have change out of two tenners.

Those who might be tempted to be a bit snooty about cultural opportunities in the area should think again - as they have done at The Plough where a successful pre-theatre menu is offered from 5.30 to 7pm. Three choices per course, say an asparagus and goat's cheese salad, followed by Oxfordshire chicken supreme, then a millefeuille of vanilla, raspberry and red berries. And so what if you are not going to the theatre?

The menu du jour is the occasion for a more leisurely and relaxed approach, with a starter of tuna medallions, pickled ginger and samphire, or Brickhill's cured meat selection with artichoke and truffle oil. The intervention of a sorbet emphasises the pace, before making the tough choice between perhaps the grilled Oxfordshire fillet of beef, Lyonnaise potatoes, cherry tomato and red wine, or a half or whole lobster Thermidor.

Malva pudding with vanilla pod ice cream or a praline flavoured ice cream parfait give the finishing touch - or do they? Just wait till you see the cheese selection and believe me, if you have a hankering after that that wonderful transformation of one of life's staples into a delicacy beyond compare, reserves of space that you never dreamed you possess will appear to accommodate your longing.

At other times when a sense of indulgence is on the cards The Plough has the perfect answer - the nine course tasting menu, at £65, or £105 with 'flight of wines' which sounds like an aerial booze run across the Channel, but I'm sure you know what they mean.

And talking of wine, which we not infrequently are, that supreme compliment to any master chef, the wine list, comes through with flying colours, starting with an excellent selection by the glass, as well as some stunning numbers in the higher range.

Whatever the circumstances The Plough is a place to be enjoyed, relished even. Their Website will expand on what is available year round. My final word? Always trust a chef who values his suppliers, people like Best Butchers in Brickhill and Geletaria Danielli in Richmond. Bon appetit!