Plum Pudding Brasserie, The

In my experience the area around the cathedral city of Lichfield is in need of a wider spread of places to eat and here we have a pretty, canal-side, half-timbered house full of charm and friendliness. A menu that derives from the Mediterranean offers a convincing range of dishes that does not fail to take advantage of the opportunities for local sourcing and genuine home cooking

Diane and Jit have had over six years experience of running Plum Pudding, backed with their team of chefs headed since 2006 by Carl Jones. In those years their expertise has earned them eight awards, including recognition by the AA, as well as the support of a regular clientele in addition to the trade that passes either by road or on the canal.

Accommodation is available in the charming Park View cottage nearby, alongside the canal, so an indulgent night at Plum Pudding can end comfortably in rooms that have been thoughtfully fitted out, not least with excellent power showers.

The restaurant conveys an impression of cheerful warmth, formality kept to a minimum, plenty of antique pine, with service to match. An a la carte menu is the staple bill of fare, starting with baked boxed Camembert with homemade chutney and mixed breads, or a choice of vegetable or meat antipasti. Duck spring rolls are served with pickled cucumber and hoi sin dipping sauce, and seared loin of tuna arrives at table with creamed and roasted corn.

Main courses conjour up a strong sense of brasserie, with braised blade of Staffordshire beef, carrots and celeriac, tornados of hake with salmon mousse, sauté king prawns, saffron and tomato dressing. Local sources are called upon to provide the braised Packington pork shoulder, roasted stuffed fillet with broad bean and tomato risotto. Vegetarians have a porcini mushroom ravioli with garlic cream sauce and fresh parmesan. All main courses are served with the vegetables of the day, as well as a choice of extra side dishes, including a delicious tomato and red onion marmalade salad.

Desserts, as well as being substantial are also imaginative, and a pear and stem ginger cheesecake with caramel sauce heads a cast of familiar names that are just that little bit different in the presentation. Nearby Needwood Farm provides the ice creams and sorbets, and the weekly varying cheese selection is not only of considerable interest to the committed cheese buff, but is encouraged by the offer of a glass of Taylor's vintage port at a price which is, to put it mildly, a temptation that would be hard to pass by.

A 2-course set price menu operates for much of the week, with a choice of four starters and five main courses for an eye-catching £10. On Sundays a large choice of blackboard specials is on offer, including two roast meats.

All the food is freshly cooked enabling requests for personal changes to be met. Children can be served smaller dishes if wished, which causes me to reflect they have not met the younger elements of my family.

Plum Pudding is well equipped to deal with large parties up to 60 seated, or 100 standing.