Poisonry - to give the restaurant, Poissonnerie de l'Avenue in South Kensington, Chelsea, its more popular name and the one that it has always been known - was established by its present owner, Peter Rosignoli in 1964, when he decided that there was more to life than being a Headwaiter, with no disrespect to that functionnaire of vital importance in any restaurant of style and weight. So after 45 years Peter is freed from some of the more tiresome baggage of running a new restaurant, has enormous experience upon which to draw and has gained a reputation that commands respect well beyond his Chelsea base.

On the menu is a wide selection of seafood such as lobster thermidor, deep-fried Queen scallops, mussels in white wine sauce and fresh crabmeat served on a bed of spinach in pastry gazed with a light white wine sauce. For those seeking something a little less maritime the French onions soup with gratinated croutons could have instant appeal, or the beef medallions with green peppercorn sauce and rissole potatoes which could satisfy more traditional tastes.

Moving seamlessly as they now say to the principal fish dishes we encounter first a truly magnificent celebration of seafood with lobster, crab, oysters, prawns, crevettes, mussels and razor clams, all served on ice. Such is its magnificence it requires the attention of two people to do it justice. Eight or more desserts offer sufficient choices for even the most demanding in that area, starting with crème brûlée maison, and brandy snaps and fresh fruits.

Next door La Maree Fish Shop, under the same ownership, offers an extensive range of fresh, high quality fish and shellfish, with homemade sauces and fish soups also available. They prepare and cook fish for private parties, and sell eggs, organic chickens and game in season.