Poissonnerie de l'Avenue

Poisonry, to give the restaurant its more popular name, and the one that I have always known it by over nearly forty years, was established by its present owner, Peter Rosignoli in 1964, when he decided that there was more to life than being a Headwaiter, with no disrespect to that functionnaire of vital importance in any restaurant of style and weight. So after 45 years Peter is freed from some of the more tiresome baggage of running a new restaurant, has enormous experience upon which to draw and has gained a reputation that commands respect well beyond his Chelsea base.

On the menu is a wide selection of seafood that includes popular classic dishes such as lobster Thermidor, as well as more innovative specialities. Amongst these expect to find what might almost be described as a signature dish, a distinctly Mediterranean-influence grilled wild sea bass served with fennel and pine kernels. What follows here is taken from one of Peter's winter menus which gives a good general picture all the year round.

As befits a highly commended seafood restaurant the selection of oysters, topped with West Mersea English No.1. Starters move on to a coquille of fruits de mer gratinée, snails in their shells stuffed with garlic butter, or a delightful bisque de Homard frais, one of the finest cream soups ever devised. How good to see that much underrated denizen of the deep, the mackerel, served as a tartare with capers, onions, Cayenne pepper and lime.

It takes real skill, in my view, to turn risotto into an appealing dish, but try theirs made with fresh green asparagus and pumpkin. For those seeking something a little less maritime the veal kidney brandy flambé served with Créole rice could have instant appeal, or the English beef fillet with green peppercorn sauce and rissoles potatoes which could satisfy more traditional tastes.

Moving seamlessly as they now say to the principal fish dishes we encounter first a truly magnificent celebration of seafood with lobster, crab, oysters, langoustines or prawns, mussels and clams, all served on ice. Such is its magnificence it requires the attentions of two people to do it justice. Back to the menu to discover a grilled or poached turbot steak, served with Hollandaise sauce, or roasted cod with a purée of lentils and cherry tomatoes. Also tucked away amongst the 15 choices is a Finnan haddock fumé Monte Carlo, complete with poached egg, beurre blanc Nantais and fresh tomatoes.

Happy to relate, the ten or so vegetable side dishes on offer have all received sufficient extra care to ensure that those who need a little coercion to eat what is alleged to be good for them do have some encouragement from the kitchen.

Eleven or so desserts offer sufficient choices for even the most demanding in that area, starting with their own celebrated crème brûlée, a petit pot au chocolat and tulipe de Framboise frais. A wine list of great cunning in that it combines a menu well met without vast hordes of once in a lifetime numbers, and some notable claret.

Next door La Maree Fish Shop (same owner) offers an extensive range of fresh, high quality fish and shellfish, with home made sauces and fish soups also available. They prepare and cook fish for private parties, and sell eggs, organic chickens and game in season.

Their Website will tell you more, in particular the seasonal changes to the menu.