Cirencester is well known for harbouring an Agricultural College of great renown (most graduates would deny there is any other) and at nearby Cirencester Park the noble game of polo is played with all the ferocity and skill that it traditionally demands. It comes as no surprise therefore to discover that one of the most successful restaurants in the area has dubbed itself The Polo Canteen. As befits the title the interior is a touch colonial as well as very jolly and robust, and high standards are demanded and delivered in this, and other, respects, one of which is the wine list - sheer joy.

The menu, of course, is paramount. Starters can be chosen from a lengthy and mouthwatering list that includes warm hash browns made with chicken livers served with pickled beetroot and a frisse salad, grilled tiger prawns with sweet and sour noodles and soy sauce, not to mention a prawn and avocado Caesar salad. There is also much emphasis on garlic bread.

An item mysteriously referred to as Polo Fish Special is available on enquiry, so that treat will be left to you. Lest your courage should fail you there's a confit of guinea fowl leg with creamed sweet potato (memorable), green beans and red wine sauce, or a chump of English lamb, presumably not a reference to a less skilled member of the team, with chive and onion marmalade and rosemary gravy. Puddings are go and one of the most interesting is - once again - the Polo Special and yes, you've guessed, details on application. How we Brits love our little secrets. All in all it's a great place and if you can't reach the bar first go I shouldn't make an issue of it.