Portal

Portal is essentially a celebration of many things that are good and have their origin in Portugal. Let's start with the owner, Antonio Correia, sometimes described as a veteran of the breed, a description with which I suspect he would not wish to disagree. It could also be argued that Clerkenwell was ready for somebody with the passion and sensitivity which Correia undoubtedly displays at every turn, making him the ideal Maître d'. And then there's the name, Portal, after Quinta do Portal, the great Portuguese winemaker.

Much play is made with the petiscos, Latin for tapas, featuring such exotic small dishes as octopus, parsley and coriander salad, a fine selection of sliced meats, mussels with mixed peppers, risotto balls with sera cheese, and a sauté of prawns in a garlic coriander and cognac sauce. These can be served at the bar or in the restaurant, depending on how the mood takes you.

Head Chef Ricardo Costa is a world-class chef and the à la carte reflects his capabilities and flair. Starters of smoked sardine terrine, tomato confit, and smoked olive oil, Portal mixed salad, or asparagus consommé with crab ravioli and vegetable dumplings are very much par for the course. Always watch out for the fish selection of the day. The champagne and white truffle risotto with deep fried rocket reflects the quite strong French influences at work. An arroz of veal is served with truffle olive oil, or two people can tuck into rib of beef, code named Posta Mirandesa - "the chateaubriand of Portugal" I suggested and nobody disagreed, served with garlic olive oil sauce.

Desserts also display mixed loyalties, a compliment rather than a complaint, with fried banana raviolis, lemon sorbet, rum and raisin sauce competes with a gazpacho of summer fruits with Portal ice cream.

When it comes to wine the discerning nose is indeed amongst friends, for if Antonio has a passion beyond the cuisine it is for his wine. There is nothing churlish about his choices, which include Spanish, Italian, French and New World, and significantly the house wines come from Portugal. However, the crème de la crème are on display in the Adega Room, Portal's private dining room for up to ten people.

Portal is one of those havens where you know you can rely utterly upon the quality of the entire operation, run by somebody who understands the game and seeks to please from a standpoint of affectionate equality.