Porthole Eating House, The

There is something endearingly old-fashioned about Porthole, run by Jason and Stefan since March 2004, but, despite the fact that their food is remarkable straightforward with dishes like - large scampi, deep fried in breadcrumbs and served with a tartare sauce; steak tartare; lasagne; spaghetti bolognese; snails in garlic butter or even their version of prawn cocktail, served with a traditional Marie Rose sauce and a touch of cognac - the excellence of the simplicity lifts it to far higher than the normal level.

Lunch sees special menus at a lower price than the evening, with risottos, pasta, and superb sausages, and even, slightly more exotically, a stir-fry. Always reliable, every town should have a restaurant like Porthole; sadly, instead, they are few and far between. Warning - they are closed on Tuesdays and take a well-deserved winter break between mid- December and mid-February.