Princess, The

Opened in 2005 The Princess combines all the attributes of a class boozer on the ground floor, with a rather more refined approach to life in the dining room on the first floor. Access is by a spiral staircase, so not advised for a night out with your granny, even given the relative agility of the breed nowadays. However, if she did make it she would surely approve the reclaimed teak chairs, leather-covered benches, chandelier and a fireplace, without even beginning to mention the quality of the food which is class gear at affordable prices (for London anyway).

The quality of the food demonstrates only too clearly the wide range covered by the G word, a word many abhor, but does provide a coverall for more or less anything that goes. Crab and prawn risotto and beef carpaccio feature amongst the starters, and expect rack of organic salt marsh lamb with wild oregano, olive and hot feta sauce, or seared tuna and rocket salad to feature on the mains menu.

Helpings are generous by any standards and some careful pacing is advised. The staff are well above average, and the wine list should keep all but the most demanding perfectly happy.