This handsome house dating from the time of George II, contains a fine panelled dining room, an ideal setting for the excellent food that is essentially up-dated traditional in style. From say 7 starters, 3 will be vegetarian. Others include red salmon mousse with salad and herb oil dressing, or a fan of avocado pear with prawns, salad and marie rose sauce. Or there are the intriguing savoury filled "moneybags" with red onion marmalade. Does their accountant know about this? No, I'm going to leave it to you, but disappointed you will not be. Think porcine.

Further little mysteries appear amongst the main courses, such as swaddled roast quail in Yorkshire pudding with a black cherry sauce. I know what they mean but what a wonderful picture this brings to mind. Then there is fillet of haddock with a "Bloody Mary" salsa and - wait for it - O'Brian potatoes. Is this the full BM, complete with celery salt, and who is/was O'Brian? Yes, I know, but what really caught my eye was the traditional homemade steak and kidney suet pudding with rich gravy; my word these chaps up in Yorkshire know how to live, no wonder they sometimes talk about declaring UDI.

Burythorpe is a place where the inner man is replenished in style, and for the less hearty there is plenty of choice, but the trouble is almost every dish on the menu appeals, surely the hallmark of a successful Head Honcho in the kitchen. Keep up the good work, boys.