It is appropriate that in a house set up by the Knights Templar to provide hospitality for those on their way to the Holy Land such excellent provision should continue to be made for the happiness of the inner man.

In the Priory Restaurant it's all open log fires and dinners by candlelight, with Scottish produce at its best forming the basis of many of the attractive dishes. The Poacher's Pocket Bar presumably brings us up to date with nefarious events related to the River Dee which tumbles past outside as haggis, neaps and tatties with a whisky cream sauce or lamb and coriander broth are savoured within.

Collops of Highland venison, dipped in oatmeal, pan-fried and served with lyonnaise potatoes, savoy cabbage and a red onion and wild berry chutney would seem to hit the right note, but the fillet of monkfish or broccoli, goat's cheese and sweet pepper Wellington will also appeal.

Running my eye down the menu I was arrested by the Turkish delight cheesecake, drizzled with a bitter sweet chocolate sauce.

House wine starts at £17.95 and there is a decent list.

Yes, this is certainly a place where the tradition of hospitality is magnificently maintained - the Knights Templar should feel well cherished.