A worthy addition to the London scene, Progreso is the harbinger of what it hopes will be a chain of cafes run in conjunction with Oxfam, Glasgow-based coffee roaster Matthew Algie and three coffee grower co-operatives in Ethiopia, Honduras and Indonesia, under the generic title of Fairtrade.

Whilst sound coffee is the basis of the operation think also of cakes, soups, sandwiches, organic salads and hot savoury pastries like crème fraîche and bacon baguette and higgidy pies with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, feta cheese, pine nuts, creamy chicken and ham. On the drinks front there are speciality coffees and organic teas, cold drinks and fruit smoothies.

At a time when the western conscience is increasingly troubled by its share of the world's affluence, projects such as Progreso are to be welcomed on moral, as well as quality food grounds.